A show in collaboration with playwright Jeremy O. Harris & performances by the industrial band Ho99o9 and Oyinda
Backstage at their Fall / Winter 2019 show in NYC
A book featuring some of V&R's editorial highlights
Viktor and Rolf are a power duo that have designed an intricate body of work together that successfully bridges the worlds of haute couture fashion and conceptual art. They met at the Arnhem Academy of Arts and Design and began working together directly after graduation. You’ll crack open this grandesque book to find stunning handiwork and elegant silhouettes combined with concept driven overtones that won’t be lost to the craft.
Their work together defines fashion as art, “contrasting romance and rebellion, exuberance and control, classicism and conceptualism”. In an interview with exhibition curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the designers consulted that they themselves don’t consider their work fashion or art exclusively but simply make what comes to mind. Initially V&R’s work was accepted into the sphere of art rather than fashion but with growing fame their company slowly formed into a recognizable fashion house.
Tony Ellwood of the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne put it best in the foreword, “Art plays an intrinsic role in the personal and creative lives of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who together create some of the most provocative haute couture of the twenty-first century. It was the art world that first embraced Viktor & Rolf’s designs early in their career and now, as they celebrate their twenty-fifth anniversary, their work is more than ever at home in the contemporary museum.”
It became clear to me as I sifted through the pages of the archive that the work inside was masterful in taste and execution; the designs bring together costume and couture with the exhibition value of contemporary sculpture. …
Art direction: Gruppe Magazine, Designer: Sarah Effenberger, Laura Precious, Accessories: Gesine Försterling, Makeup: Anne Timber, Hair: Franziska Presche, Assisting: René Carrera and Inês Ramos
Make room in your drawer, you need these briefs!
GAYLETTER loves to showcase Tom of Finland. From exhibitions of the artist’s work, to a bedding collaboration Touko Laaksonen’s legacy is important to us. Many brands have taken Tom’s iconic muscle men and used them to amplify textiles and designs. CDLP, the Stockholm based premium underwear label, most recently teamed up with the Tom of Finland Foundation to create a sleek ode to Laaksonen’s penchant for minimalism and masculinity.
You’re definitely used to seeing gaudy, neon jock straps on various dance-floors and bedroom drawers, but CDLP took an opposite approach to these intimates. With simplicity and branding in mind, CDLP stuck to the classic white and black color-ways. Just above the pelvis you’ll find a subtle embossment of Tom’s autograph, marking the style as his posthumous own. The designs feature some of Tom’s most notable illustrations, which adorn the packaging and a limited edition print and portrait of the artist himself.
CDLP produces with an emphasis on sustainability so, not only will you be supporting a brand that supports the queer community, but you’re participating in responsible consumption — CDLP’s underwear is sewn from a fabric called lyocell that’s created using a biodegradable organic fiber from a closed loop wood pulping process. By continuing to use ethical fabrics a CDLP keeps us and the earth in good shape.
Fashion's cult-favorite archive receives a proper publishing treatment.
If you didn’t already know of stylist David Casavant’s extensive archive of conceptual menswear, his book, aptly titled David Casavant Archive (DAMIANI), is the perfect introduction. The collection of images melds together the stylist’s various collaborations between artists and his archive denoting the various views Casavant’s collection inflicts on culture, ranging from the celebrity to the individual creative. If you’re new to the archive, it’s best to skip to the ending where you’ll find the archive’s proper credits. It features some of the most influential fashion from the last 20 years including Helmut Lang, Gucci, John Galliano, Raf Simons, Maison Margiela, Jil Sander and more.
The press release notes, “The David Casavant Archive is a private collection of the world’s rarest and most culturally potent contemporary design, with focus on designers from the late ‘90s to the 2000s, notably Helmut Lang and Raf Simons. Curated over the span of a more than a decade, the archive distinguishes itself through Casavant’s distinct vision of youth and attitude. David Casavant Archive is a natural extension of Casavant’s vision to make fashion accessible, alive and relevant for the times.”
Flipping through the pages, I was struck with an assortment of images ranging from snapshots of a youthful provocateur to snippets of both traditional and digital works of art. While the placement of the photographs do not follow any sort of pattern, this assorted approach to layout allows for surprise. As I leafed through the lightly glossed pages, what stopped me on multiple occasions were the editorial mood boards; screenshots of effortlessly influential fashion collected most likely prior to the shoots. …
Featuring Deon — Hair by Greg Cooper Spencer — Photography by Vincent Dilio — Directed by Boswell Scot and Abi Benitez — Music by Gess + 88MPH